90
By Jack Harris
Eight days from Verbier to Zermatt
A solo trip hiking and running from Verbier to Zermatt - This is a slight variation to the Walkers Haute Route that takes in more runnable terrain.
Run
The beginnings of Gone
1
Run
Verbier to Cabane d'Essertze
Day one was comical, it started in London at 4am, I flew to Geneva, took a couple of trains to Val de Bagnes, the gondola to Verbier and then another chairlift up to Ruinett.
By now it was after 2pm and I had 30km to cover to Cabane d'Essertze.
The first-day trails were a great intro to the rest of the trip. Tough sections were usually followed by easier, flowing kms.
I rolled into Cabane d'Essertze as everyone was having dinner, the place was small and homely with a great view over the valley.
2
Run
Cabane d'Essertze to Cabane Aiguille Rouge
Day one had felt much harder than it should have and day two was much the same. On paper, 30km and 1600m up shouldn't be too bad but even the flats felt hard, I was starting to wonder if there was something wrong.
I started the day with some single track, thinking about the coffee and pastry I could get at the cafe I'd spotted on the map only to find it closed.
I battled up to Pas de Chevres and forced down the crusty bread, excessive cheese and snickers bar the refuge offered for lunch.
Still feeling terrible, the next couple of hours forced me to reset my approach to the trip. I had expectations of big days with impressive numbers and lots of running. I shifted my thinking from speed and training, to appreciation and enjoyment of movement through the mountains.
This shift in thinking coincided with a please surprise at Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges (Google). The staff were amazing, there was a new block with fancy showers, and the food, drink and people were all great. I walked up to the peak behind the hut for sunset, and listened to the mountains as rocks fell through the valley.
3
Run
Cabane Aiguille Rouge to Cabane Becs de Bosson
Day three started with a better attitude and a realisation that altitude sickness might explain how I had been feeling.
I felt much better as I came down from altitude and into the valley for the first time since I started. I made a stop for pastry, coffee and then a pizza before the day's big climb from Evolene up to Cabane Becs de Bosson.
Day Three Accomodation - Cabane Becs de Bosson
4
Run
Cabane Becs de Bosson to Cabane de Moiry
Day four was great. The trails were gentle, the light was good, and I only had 15km to the next hut. I rolled into Cabane de Moiry CAS at 11am.
The hut was special, a new extension, perched above a glacier with floor-to-ceiling glass and a beautiful fit-out. It felt like a resort for people who love the mountains. I had planned some day trips, but after arriving the weather closed in, I spent the day eating, reading and watching the glacier from the good seats.
5
Run
Cabane de Moiry to Turtmann Hut
Day five started over Col du Pigne where things were a little spicy through the scree and loose larger rocks.
Zinal was good for a resupply and then the climb up and over to Turtmannhutte wasn't overly memorable.
Overlooking another glacier the hut was nice but sleeping arrangements were getting a bit close for comfort.
6
Run
Turtmann Hut to Randa
Day six started with a decision to either head over Schollijoch with its ropes, ladders and recommendations of helmets and harnesses or head back down the valley to an easier col.
I was talking to a woman at dinner who said her husband and seven-year-old had been over that day so I figured I would be ok.
At 3,300m, wearing a t-shirt and shorts while surrounded by others in full climbing kit, I started to question my decision-making.
Fairly comfortable with heights and controlled risk, I was getting close to my limit. The ladders we fine but the sections traversing across the face with a rope weren't fun. I tried to exude some confidence to avoid drawing disappointment and comments from those who knew what they were doing.
Feeling good with a bit of adrenaline, I missed a turn-off and ended up at Topalihutte SAC. Another beautiful new build with a wall of colour-coded crocs on entry.
The trail down to Randa was great, but the town was disappointing, and I wasn't ready to be out of the mountains.
If I were doing the route again, I'd reroute to stay in Topalihutte SAC, and likely end the route here. For a longer trail, there are better trails that could be added at the start of the route.
7
Run
Randa to Mountain Lodge Ze Seewjinju
My mood took a hit in these final days. I loved the simple life of waking up, moving through the mountains, eating, and sleeping. I wasn't ready for this to end.
There were a few good sections, but it was back to real life with civilization, lifts, roads, and restaurants scattered throughout.
+1
8
Run
Mountain Lodge Ze Seewjinju to Zermatt
I had bigger plans for the final day but job interviews forced me to cut things short and head back to Zermatt.
The trip was incredible and quite transformative to how I think about these multi-day trips. I easily get caught up in training or trying to push everything hard but was a welcome reminder to appreciate the mountains, the movement and forget the stats.
